by Nancy Hobbs
Special to The Salt Lake Tribune
SUNDANCE - Visiting Sundance Resort up Provo Canyon is always a treat to be enjoyed on several levels and with all the senses.
One can't arrive at the secluded enclave from any direction without being awed by the majesty of snow-capped Mount Timpanogos looming to the west. Driving up the canyon from the Utah Valley side, the geology of the exposed mountain slopes is artwork in itself, with rainbow layers and massive swirls that send the mind marveling at the unimaginable forces that set them in place eons ago.
Abundant waterfalls, with effusive sprays lashing out over sharp ledges, are visible evidence of days warming up to spring.
It's a hard act to follow, and thankfully Sundance doesn't try to upstage it. Instead, the resort's low-profile buildings are designed to mesh with their natural surroundings, and do as well in that regard as one could expect.
Our destination for a recent visit was The Tree Room, the resort's fine-dining
restaurant; the occasion was a wine-pairing dinner featuring a handful of new
Sundance-label wines and a menu by the restaurant's relatively new executive
chef, Colton Soelberg.
Let me divulge upfront that The Tree Room has always been a favorite, from way back in my college days, when Robert Redford hosted a special dinner and preview of "All the President's Men" for the local Society of Professional Journalists. It has continued to lure me and my husband, and a lot of other couples, for special-occasion dinners where the incredible natural setting and rustic but elegant ambience are unmatched, and the food and service have never disappointed.
Now, in keeping with the resort's continuing foray into the arts and independent self-expression, it has delved into the world of winemaking by embracing the "art" of several artisan vintners from California and Oregon. In a unique arrangement, the resort has put its new Sundance label - designed by graphic artist Michael Schwab - on five wines that have been deemed reflective of the vintners' "independent spirit."
The wines are on the extensive list of 200 wines available at The Tree Room, but can also be purchased at the Sundance General Store and in limited quantities at Utah liquor stores.
Among the wines is a luscious 2002 Chardonnay from Selby Winery in Healdsburg, Calif., which Soelberg paired at the aforementioned dinner with several unique appetizers for guests milling around the dining room enjoying Redford's impressive collection of American Indian rugs, baskets, pottery and Kachinas. The fresh tuna tartare was an especially nice complement, whether served on crispy yam crackers or rolled in paper-thin cucumber. The wine also paired nicely with the warm gougeres, airy puffs of pastry made with Gruy re cheese; and a winning combination of savory rabbit rillettes and sweet prunes on toasted baguette rounds.
As the dinner began, Soelberg gave some insight into the rest of the evening's fare and how it, too, fits the Sundance philosophy of protecting the environment by patronizing businesses that are equally committed. The sea scallops, he said, come from a fishery that uses "only sound fishing practices" in harvesting the seafood. They were paired with a 2002 Pinot Noir from the Benton-Lane Winery in Willamette Valley, Ore., which relies on sustainable agricultural methods to protect its resources and the nearby waters where salmon spawn.
The lean grilled buffalo with wild game au jus, a regular item on Soelberg's Tree Room menu, comes from a Salt Lake Valley farmer, in keeping with Sundance's efforts to "support as many local purveyors as possible," the chef said. He paired it with the Sundance-labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2002 varietal from the family-owned Livingston-Moffett Winery in Napa Valley.
Judd's Hill Winery has partnered with Sundance by putting the resort's label on its 1999 Merlot. The wine is a fragrant and delightful selection that also comes from a family-owned operation in St. Helena, Calif. Soelberg paired it with an equally impressive dish of his own: flavorful short ribs that were slow-cooked to incredible tenderness and served with homemade noodles.
The dessert course paired a 2002 Syrah from Heron Wines of Napa County with a creamy dark chocolate pot de cr me and cherry biscotti prepared by Sundance pastry chef Joseph McRae. The wine's bit of spice and the dessert's richness were an eloquent finale to an evening of intriguing sights, tastes and aromas.
Soelberg, himself a product of Utah who cut his culinary teeth at age 18 in the Sundance kitchen before moving through several kitchen promotions around the country, will continue to host special-event dinners through the year. The dinners will pair each of Sundance's wine partners and a more comprehensive taste of their selections with guest chefs from around the country.
The next dinner, set for May 19, will feature Art Finkelstein, owner and winemaker at Judd's Hill Wines, with Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani from Napa Valley's renowned Terra Restaurant. For more information, call the resort at 801-223-4200.
Nestled at the base of 12,000-foot Mt. Timpanogos, Sundance is a 6,000-acre community preserve dedicated to maintaining the balance of art, nature and community. Sundance offers diverse mountain recreation experiences and encourages the cultivation of art and self-expression, as well as the preservation of the land. Created by Robert Redford, Sundance is a haven for discovery and inspiration. The Sundance family of companies includes the Sundance Village, Sundance Institute, Sundance Channel and Sundance Catalog. For more information on Sundance, call 801-225-4107 or visit our website, www.sundanceresort.com.